Casa Rural Costa de Egoa

"Waterfalls wouldn't sound so melodious if there were no rocks in their way." - Rishabh Gautam

The casa, a converted stone water mill on the banks of the Abelleira River, was more than I expected. I was there for two nights, but also for the best part of two days once I’d completed my “stages.” There was a wonderful, if derelict, trail behind the casa, part of a protected eco area, with the ruins of water mills and dams. I explored at my peril because there had been some flooding and parts of the trail were washed out. The waterfalls made the effort more than worthwhile.

The casa was rather abandoned for part of the afternoons which allowed me a short, blissful window of time to write.

The other pilgrims, all couples and groups, hiked longer into the day, having started in Ferrol instead of A Coruña. On arrival, they gathered at a few tables for drinks to rehash their day. English was not their first language but we managed introductions. I’d expected some deeper level of engagement as a fellow pilgrim after watching “The Way,” but that wasn’t their vibe and I didn’t want to intrude. They kept to themselves as they dined, keeping up their lively banter, then they crashed early to push through the next day. I began to feel lonely, and second-guessed my decision to come alone, but brushed it off. I’d chosen solitude for the sake of my script. All choices have downsides.

The hosts were very amiable and helpful despite the language barrier. We tried and erred, learned and laughed. The food was delicious and plentiful. They often entertained family, friends, and locals pop by for drinks or meals and it could get quite lively. It was supposed to be a non-smoking property, so I found it difficult when visitors lit up on the patio, having so recently quit. The guests’ secondhand smoke was problematic. I came close to joining in a few times if only to hold my frustration at bay.

A rare bit of light in the commons area by the guest rooms.

The light was at a premium indoors. It was darker and cooler, typical of rustic lodgings. It was hard to find a cozy place with enough natural lighting or functional lamps to read or write by and the wifi was incredibly slow. Or it seemed that way. My fault-finding was magnified by my craving for a cigarette - or a pack of them. I wanted to enjoy the patio area and felt cheated. I was bored with my own company and a bit lonely. I took to walking the grounds, stopping periodically to record voice memos instead of journaling - and taking a lot of deep, cleansing breaths. I also modified my packing checklist template, adding a book light. There is power in being proactive!

A lovely little room. The waterfall and birdsong soundscape was magnificent. The tiny light, not so much.

Here I am, on the banks of the Abelleira River, turned around on flooded trails, lost and happy despite it. It was a definite highlight of my stay at Costa Egoa.

What rocks are in your way - and can you find the melody in their presence?

Write a scene where you or your character is disgruntled about something - or several somethings - on a trip. Or a scene where they’ve been impacted by a forgotten or lost item.

How your character copes in these scenes can impact their likeability. Avoid caricatures and stereotypes. Conflict is better than melodrama. It’s a bit like putting sand in a pilgrim’s shoes when they already have blisters.

Ultreia! Forward, together!

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