Day Tripping to the End of the World
“Make each day your masterpiece” —John Wooden
If I could go back and do one thing, pilgrimage-wise, it would be to have walked the Camino Finisterre - Muxia as an add-on to the Camino Ingles - or to have done the pilgrimage on horseback as I’d originally hoped. Unfortunately, the tour company could not guarantee the dates until they had a large enough group. In Wayward, I give my love of horses to Dora. She and her boyfriend, Pietro, whose family lives in the casa adjoining hers, hope to run horseback tours on the Camino. Such is the repurposing power of the pen! The route I would have chosen looked like a distorted cowboy Lasoo, something like this:
What I decided to do instead was to take a day trip through the area and return a few days later to end my trip with a week in Finisterre to reflect on my pilgrimage, write about it, and consider how my experience might influence my screenplay. What’s the saying? - “When humans plan, God laughs.” Pretty darn close. This day trip was a definite highlight. I went to the end of the world - or what was once thought of that way - had a few epiphanies, and found the ending I needed for Wayward.
The quotes beneath the photos are taken from the tour’s promotional materials.
Ponte Maceira: “The Roman bridge of Pontemaceira is the first stop of the Finisterranean way, till the end of the world. Here you will enjoy the views of this nice bridge and hear legends about Santiago.” (30 minutes)
The area certainly deserved a full hour of exploration. It felt as rushed as it was beautiful. The same applied to Muxia - and then some.
Sanctuario da Virxe da Barca, is a really important place for the peregrinations about Santiago’s Way. Every pilgrim comes here to see the strength of the ocean and to hear the legends about the arrival of Santiago, the Apostle. (45 minutes.) Pedra D’abalar Y Pedra Dos Cadris: During the visit to the Muxia sanctuary, you will have the opportunity to learn about the wonderful history of these two stones, venerated by the local people that contain great history.” (30 minutes)
As the tour bus drove past the hotel I’d booked, I realized it was way too far past the edge of town and rather isolated. I knew that I’d spend more time walking to town and back to get much work done so the added expense of the stay wouldn’t be justified. Instead, I changed my reservations, and yes - booked an earlier flight home where I have a wonderful space to write. Leaving early meant there would be mornings dedicated to rewriting Wayward to get it competition-ready, and afternoon breaks for body and soul-nourishing swims at the lake. The time I had left in Spain was now finite and I savoured it all the more. I also wondered which one of my children would win the bet over my early return.
Faro de Fisterra, Cabo Finisterre, and lunch: “the end of the World, and the end of the Way. A place with a huge amount of energy, where the feelings of the pilgrims are floating in the air. romans, Celtics, and other cultures had marked this place as a very important area. Arriving here, you will discover why.”(3 hours)
This was the end of the cigarette’s pilgrimage with me. It was to come out of its pack and into the bonfire, remember? Not once has I peeked inside the cigarette pack to check on it. But there was no bonfire to be had, something I hadn’t been alerted to in my planning. I get it - the bonfires were both famous and infamous, and not environmentally friendly. So I took the cigarette out onto the rocks beyond the lighthouse and had a private ceremony for it. Of course, it required a puff to get it started - and a few to keep it going. I recorded the event so I could replay how ridiculous my justifications sounded. I found a tiny cross and wrapped it in an unused kleenex before disposing of it as well, more respectful of it than I had been of my lungs. And I didn’t have another cigarette for the rest of the trip. There were a few short relapses when I got home, in part due to the triggers surrounding my brother’s care - like taking him on supervised cigarette breaks at the hospital. It’s a dreadful addiction. May it rest in peace.
Before leaving the beach in Finisterre where I dipped my feet in the ocean along with the tattoos from my children, I gathered up some “it’s not really the end of the world” sand. When I returned home, I made up some little gift containers with it to give away to dear ones who’ve hit an end-of-the-world moment, to sprinkle on the ground in a little line and boldly step over into their new world. I’ve used a few myself since then as well.
“The Ezaro Waterfall is a unique place, extremely connected with the pre-Roman culture. Legends…” include gaining “strength with each water drop which flows at the waterfall.”(45 minutes)
The waterfall was stunning and there are pathways to walk nearer and experience the thunderous sound close-up. At a distance from the falls, there are other sounds to enjoy. Hit play on the short video clip and enjoy!
Last, but not least, the Parish of Lire and the Horréo de Carnota.
“The north of Spain, and especially Galicia, has plenty of granaries, locally called Horreos. The Horreo de Carnota is one of the largest in the world and you will discover how useful they are and why it became one of the most recognizable symbols of the Galician society.” (30 minutes)
Have you ever had one of those day trips that are so full and rich that your heart keeps unpacking bits and pieces for years?
For me, this day was that! I always try to leave a few days on arrival and prior to departure to fit in a few excursions. I’ve taken many extended tour holidays with groups like Insight Travel, Cosmos, and such. Sometimes they feel so rushed that I need to go back to do them justice. Take the time to do something on your bucket list that might not be part of a tour as well. One of the highlights of a trip to France was to rent a row boat at Chenonceaux while the others were having lunch. I was able to experience the view of the bridge and castle from the water, as the royals might have. Design your dream getaways, expect a few blunders along with successes, and seize the days!
This is another perfect place to brainstorm around the question I’ve put to you.
Don’t stop at one page or one holiday.
You may unpack ideas for a story, travel articles, a novel, or even a screenplay!
Ultreia! Forward, together.
